Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Six Simple Strawberry Dishes

Inspired by this gorgeous photo of my daughter's first strawberry crop this year- I thought it was time to think about ways of using up all those luscious red summer fruits that are starting to fill the shops, roadside stalls and PYOs.

After all, it is the Chelsea Flower Show this week, Wimbledon is just around the corner and all those other milestones of an English summer are appearing on the horizon. (Even if the central heating is still on and the rain is lashing down outside!)

So, I've put together 6 recipes to make the most of a punnet of strawberries.






With strawberries, just fresh as they are with some cream is usually the best way- but to pretty them up a bit ( and make them go a bit further ) try making a tartare.

Strawberry and Basil Tartare

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Fresh Ideas


I'd like to say that life is getting back to normal here, after our French adventure, but what with one thing and another, it just hasn't.
However, it's definitely time to restock with some fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and fish. Even reading last month's blog back to myself leaves me with a feeling of Vitamin C deficiency!


So, this time I'm giving you some soup recipes, some starters, vegetable sides and a meat and fish dish with the aim of offering you a more balanced diet than last time.

To start, I've made an Asparagus Charlotte. This is a pretty little starter, featuring a smoked mackerel mousse surrounded by a guard of honour of new season asparagus tips. Very cheffy-looking- but simple to achieve.

Asparagus Charlotte

Slow Braised Fennel
As I mentioned, I intended serving this fennel with fish. I chose firm white fish fillets (cod or hake) and placed them on baking parchment with a splash of white wine and some chopped parsley. I then sealed the parcels up like Cornish pasties, twisting the paper together to form a seal.

Wrapping up the fish parcels

Bake in a hot oven (180 degrees) for 20-25 minutes. Then lift out the fish pieces and spread each one with some olive tapenade. Top that with some breadcrumbs and finely chopped chive or spring onion and flash under a hot grill until crisp.

Serve with the fennel and other veg of your choice. (I usually bake some tomatoes on the vine along with the fish)
Tapenade Crusted Fish
Finally, with the leftover fennel I made another soup: 1 onion and 1 clove of garlic softened, 3 small potatoes (chopped), fennel slices, orange juice, chicken stock and parsley- simmered and then blitzed.
I usually sieve the finished soup to remove any fibrous bits of fennel or potato skin, add a little milk or cream and serve garnished with the fennel fronds which were saved as a garnish.

Cream of Fennel Soup
So, all in all I feel a bit healthier now. Lots of nice spring veg and fresh meat and fish working their magic.

I thought coming back to the UK, I'd find myself fresh out of ideas for the blog- but it seems the opposite is true!

Hope this week's blog has refreshed the parts that other blogs didn't reach..


Wednesday, 22 April 2015

Stale Storecupboard Stuff

Well, I'm back in Blighty, back on home turf with a bump- so it's back to familiar blog territory too ie. using up stuff that you might throw away (if you didn't know better.)

I had a bag of leftover picnic foods from our journey across France, and a storecupboard full of packets and boxes that had sat unused and unloved for the 3 months I was away. Time to use up biscuits, cereal, toasts, cakes and other dry goods before it was too late to do so.




I started with the breakfast cereal- and made a Bettelmann. This is a bread pudding-like cake from Alsace made from cereal and/or toasts, soaked in milk and baked with fruit and a bit of booze.
The name means 'Beggar Man' and is also known as 'Mendiant' in French.
Nothing too poor about it though, as it is spicy and satisfying- especially when served with cream or custard.

It featured in this Saturday's Guardian Cook supplement too.
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/apr/25/cornflake-tart-oat-quiche-ice-cream-sandwich-recipe-swap

Soak some sultanas (or traditionally cherries) in a litle rum (or kirsch for cherries).
Warm but don't quite boil 450ml of milk, 3 tbsp of sugar and add 125g of crushed cereal. Work the mixture with a fork, then a wooden spoon, until you have a homogenous porridge-like consistency. (I know it doesn't sound or look great at this stage- but have faith!) Leave this to stand whilst you butter and line a 20cm cake tin with chapelure (finely blitzed biscotte /toast crumbs).

Into the cake mixture, beat 2 large eggs, a teaspoon of mixed spice and a teaspoon of cinnamon.Peel and thinly slice a dessert apple and add this plus the rum-soaked sultanas to the mix.Pour the mixture into the cake tin, level the surface and sprinkle with a sachet of vanilla sugar.




Bake at 170 degrees for 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.


Bettelmann with apples and sultanas
I made a very similar pudding-cake using a packet of semolina. I know, I know..semolina! When was the last time you thought of serving that up to your guests? In fact,  I only had a packet in the cupboard as 'emergency camping food'.
However, a gateau de semoule is a very popular French dessert- and I thought I would have a go at making it.

I was pleasantly surprised.

You need 200g of semolina, 150 g sultanas, 140 g caster sugar, 1 litre of milk, 2 eggs, 5 cl of rum and some vanilla essence. For the caramel topping you need 120g of powdered sugar and 4 dessert spoons of water.

1. First soak the sultanas in the rum.
2. Then make up the semolina according to the instructions using the milk, sugar and vanilla essence. Leave it to thicken and cool.
3. Pre heat the oven to 170 degrees and make the caramel by boiling the water and powdered sugar together until it darkens in colour.
4. Pour the caramel into a lined 20 cm cake tin and allow it to spread out.


Caramel topping added
5. Now beat the eggs into the semolina and pour it over the caramel.
6. Bake in the oven until golden and firm.
7. Cool slightly and peel off the lining paper, turn out, slice and serve.


Gateau de semoule
The next two desserts are similar in many ways- they both use an egg custard to set them, rather like a bread-and-butter pudding.

The first I made from a packet of galette biscuits- but any biscuits would do eg. Nice, Malted Milk or Digestives.
Here is the recipe (which appeared in the Guardian earlier in the year.) Their picture (and flattering write-up) is so much better than mine!


A Breton biscuit cake, which won this week's recipe swap competition, sits atop a stripey tablecloth, with a couple of segments missing. The assumption is that someone has eaten a bit of it. To be fair, that's probably what has happened.
"Every dish I cooked was delicious, but the cake from LeftoverLiz quite literally took the biscuit. Who’d have thought that a pint of milk, a couple of eggs, a leftover apple and a few old biscuits could make such a show-off pudding? I’ve since tried it with digestives too, so don’t be afraid to experiment with the broken bits at the bottom of the barrel." (The Editor- Guardian Cook supplement)

The winning recipe: Breton biscuit cake

Although I’ve made this pudding-cake with Breton galette biscuits (because I love their toffee buttery taste), the recipe will work well with any simple biscuits (malted milk, Nice and so on).
LeftoverLiz, via GuardianWitness
Serves 8-10
1 dessert apple or pear, peeled cored and chopped
1 tbsp butter, for greasing the tin
2 eggs
100g caster or vanilla sugar
500ml milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
150g stale biscuits

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1 First make a compote with the apple or pear. Put the fruit in a small saucepan with a little water then stew it down to a pulp for around 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.
2 Generously butter a 15cm cake tin, then beat the eggs and sugar together in a bowl until the mixture goes pale in colour. Mix in the milk and vanilla.
Spread out the biscuits in a layer on the bottom of the tin, add a spreading of the fruit compote and then pour over some of the milk mixture.
4 Repeat with a second and even third layer until you have used up all your ingredients.
5 Leave it to soak while you preheat your oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 and then bake the cake for around 20-25 minutes until the custard is set. Leave to cool, sprinkle with icing sugar and serve in slices with cream.
My final dessert for today uses up my picnic- to be precise: a box of Madeleines and some jam.
Leftovers from a Proustian picnic
1.Butter a gratin dish, slice the madeleines lengthways and spread them with jam.
2.Preheat your oven to 170 degrees
3. Arrange the madeleines in the dish and pour over an egg custard made from 350 ml of milk mixed with 1 beaten egg, some vanilla essence and 100g of caster sugar.

Soak the cakes in the egg custard
4. Allow the milk to soak in to the cakes and then bake until risen and firm (about 25 minutes).

Madeleine Pudding
And so here ends my story of stale storecupboard stuff.

It is nice to be back- but I think it is high time I went out and bought some fresh ingredients. Don't you?


Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Specialities of Nice

We have had many visitors over the last three months here in Cassis. And last week, a family member flew in to Nice airport for a brief stay. We thought we would combine the airport pick- up with a short city break in Nice, as it is a city I haven't visited before.

Well, reader, we loved it. Think California meets Rome-  all wrapped up in a French package. Nice had it all.




 Joggers and skaters thronged the Promenade des Anglais, whilst the beach bars played 'California Dreaming'  and 'Sitting on the Dock of the Bay' and then, as you reach Vieux Nice, suddenly the street signs are in Italian and French, huge marble piazzas open out and fountains sparkle.
The tiny winding streets of the old quarter host hundreds of restaurants- and we made it our mission to seek out some specialites Nicoise to share with you- pan bagnat, salade nicoise, pissaladiere, socca, petits farcis, and panisse.

I ordered an assiettte du coin which had all or most of these delights on one plate:

Clockwise from the top- socca, pissaladiere, petits farcis, panisse, beignets d'aubergine

Socca was new to me- but, if you like savoury pancakes and especially if you are looking for gluten-free, then this is a good recipe for you as these hearty galettes are made from chickpea flour:

Ingredients:

100g chick pea flour
100g corn flour (maizena)
2 eggs
400 ml milk
generous pinch of salt

Mix all together and beat well with a balloon whisk.
Heat an ovenproof frying pan until smoking with a very small amount of flavourless oil and fry your pancake on one side only.
Drizzle with olive oil.
Finish the second side under a hot grill.

Serve with more olive oil and a good grinding of black pepper.

Salade nicoise and pan bagnat go hand in hand as the latter is pretty much a sandwich made from the former- so a good leftover idea.

For the salad you need: tuna, black olives, hard boiled eggs, anchovies, salad leaves, sweet white onion (or spring onion) and tomatoes plus a dressing made from olive oil, mustard and white wine vinegar.

Salade nicoise

For the pan bagnat, you need individual crusty rolls or a pain de campagne for a large version.

Cut off the lids, and hollow out the bread inside (blitz this for breadcrumbs to keep in the freezer).
Drizzle in olive oil and then pack the cavities with tuna, olives, tomatoes, salad leaves, anchovies, radishes, peppers, eggs etc
Replace the lids and wrap tightly in cling film and then refrigerate (preferably for several hours) so the filling soaks into the bread and compacts down-  becoming easy to slice and serve.

individual Pan bagnat 




Pan Bagnat goes large!

Everybody knows my penchant for stuffing vegetables and I've featured petits farcis before:


Image for Petits Farcis



Saturday, 14 March 2015

Soupe de Poissons and other fishy dishes

It would be odd to end my time here in Cassis without at least one blog given over to fish recipes- as the fish restaurants on the quayside are one of the main reasons tourists come here in their hundreds. On a Saturday or Sunday, even in winter, you cannot get a table at any of the hotspots along the Quai des Baux- with everyone tucking into bowls of fish soup, plates of oursins and fish served up in any number of ways.
Fresh oursins
Quayside in Cassis

However, a meal in one of these enticing places will set you back a fair few euros- so here are some recipes to make at home at a fraction of the price. Open a nice bottle of Cassis white wine http://www.ot-cassis.com/en/les-cepages.html, find a bit of spring sunshine if you can, and you can share the experience along with me!

I'm starting with a fish soup, taking you through some simple fried fish dishes, a poached salmon idea, and then looking at some ways to make a little go a long way with the aid of pasta and pastry.

Soupe de poissons is a Provencal classic- little rock fish boiled up to make a stock with tomatoes, garlic and saffron and then pureed and sieved to make a rich soup, served with toasts, rouille and grated cheese. Every baker has big bags of toasts for sale- but of course, they are simple to make yourself with stale bread, sliced thinly, spread out on a baking tray and cooked on a low heat in the oven until brown and crispy.

Ingredients:

2 onions
2 fat cloves of garlic
1 leek
2 carrots
500g of fish- here the fishmongers sell poissons de rocher especially for fish soup but you can improvise with a mixture of pollock, fish pie mix, fish trimmings or whatever you can pick up at the fishmongers going cheap.
6 shell on prawns
1 glass of white wine
1 tbsp pastis-optional
1 pinch of saffron
salt and pepper
2 -3 tbsp tomato puree or a small tetrapak of passata
1 litre of water.

1. Soften the onion, leek and garlic in a little olive oil,  then add the chopped carrots
2. Add the prawns (legs, head and all) and scrunch around a bit with the veg.
3. Add the fish, white wine and seasoning and bring to the boil
4. Reduce the heat, add the tomato puree, pastis, water and saffron and simmer for 20 minutes
5. Then blitz the soup with a hand blender, pour the gloopy mixture through a sieve to take out any bones, scales, spiny bits etc
6. Keep warm

To serve- give your guests bowls of toasts, grated cheese and rouille ( garlic mayonnaise flavoured with paprika and tomato). They can either float their toasts in their bowl of soup, or place them in the bottom of the bowl and spoon their soup over them. (Everyone ate it so fast, I forgot to take a photo unitl it was nearly finished!)

Fish Soup with rouille, cheese and croutons

Sometimes the best way to serve fish is just to use the simplest and quickest method you can. Meuniere is just such a recipe. It literally means 'cooked the way the miller would'- white fish, coated in plain flour and seasoning and then fried in hot butter until golden and crispy.
That's all there is to it.

Skate wings cooked a la meuniere



Fish fillets- fried (whether in flour or not)- can be enhanced with simple sauces. Here I've got some red mullet fillets served with tapenade (green or black olive paste). You can buy tapenade everywhere here- it is known as the butter of Provence- and it is served routinely with toasts when you order an aperitif in a bar or cafe.
It is however very simple to make if you have a food processor:

Take 150g of  pitted green or black olives, 2 fat cloves of garlic and a glug of olive oil and pulse them all together until you have a smooth paste.

Fry your fish fillets quickly, presentation side down, turned once and served on a plate with lemon and tapenade.
Rougets with tapenade

An equally easy sauce to make is with roasted veg - it is good made with leftover Mediterranean veg as the flavour improves when it is cool.

Sea bass with roasted veg sauce
2 red peppers (deseeded and chopped into chunks)
2 large tomatoes (quartered)
1 onion (peeled and quartered)
1 fat clove of garlic (peeled)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
salt and pepper
1. Mix the oil and vinegar in the bottom of a large roasting dish
2. Add the veg and plenty of salt and pepper
3. Toss with your hands until the veg is thoroughly coated
4. Roast at 170 degrees for about 30 minutes until the veg is tender and beginning to caramelize on the edges and tops
5. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. (The flavour develops the longer you leave it, which is why it is good made with leftovers the next day)
6. Blitz in a food processor until smooth and pass through a sieve to remove any pips or tomato skin


Salmon- both fresh and frozen- is about the best value fish you can buy here. I bought four large paves for 7 euros.
Two of the fillets I poached in almond milk:

Bring a tetrapak of unsweetened almond milk up to a simmer and add a pinch of saffron, two tsp curry powder and lots of salt and pepper. Slide in your salmon pieces and poach for 10 minutes.
Thicken the sauce with a little creme fraiche and serve the fish with rice, sauce and a sprinkling of chopped chives.

Salmon poached in almond milk

The remaining two I used in pasta dishes- lasagne (layers of fresh lasagne pasta, salmon and cooked leeks mixed with a tub of creme fraiche and topped with a little grated gruyere):

Salmon and leek lasagne
and tagliatellis (100 g of fresh tagliatelle per person cooked in boiling salted waer for a couple of minutes, a bunch of chopped chives, some flaked salmon and a tub of creme fraiche and some of the leftover salmon poaching stock mixed into the warm pasta with plenty of salt and black pepper)- and had enough left over to flake into a leek and salmon tart. (A pastry case, 2 leeks, 4 eggs and some milk plus the salmon and seasoning).


Salmon and leek tart

Finally, I made a seafood pasta dish, using a mixture of fresh and frozen fish- pollock, prawns and mussels:
Embed the cleaned mussels in the pasta

Seafood pasta





Poach the white fish for 5 minutes in a little white wine. Cook the pasta noodles for 7 minutes until just becoming tender. Drain the pasta and mix it with the white fish, poaching liquor, a clove of pureed garlic, prawns and half a tetrapak of passata. Spread it out in a gratin dish, add some black olives and then embed 5-6 large cleaned mussels in the pasta.
Cook in a medium oven- 165 degrees- until the mussels have opened.

A bientot!