Tuesday, 9 June 2015

Super Speedy Summer Suppers

It seems I am carrying on the theme of things beginning with 'S', with some recipes this time which are super quick and summery- mainly because no one wants to be spending much time cooking in the evenings, now the weather is (slowly) improving.

Although I did put my slow cooker into service today ( to stew up a batch of soft onions for me to use in various dishes), generally speaking, summer isn't a time for stews and casseroles. It's a time for fresh stuff and salads, which are quick to prepare.

Fresh stuff brings with it the greater possibility of waste though- and making the most of the leftovers can be a challenge.

To help with this, each of the dishes I've prepared has a sister dish (or two) which use the leftovers up quickly.

I'm starting with a summer stir fry: mange-tout, mushrooms, peppers, spring onions and radishes (yes, radishes). Very much in season and much more versatile than you think.

Summer Stir-Fry

Begin by cutting all your veg into equal-ish chunks.

Ready for stir frying
Heat some oil in a wok until it is smoking hot and then toss in the mushrooms, mange touts, peppers, onions and radishes in that order, a minute or two between each addition.
I added some cooked chicken and fried it all quickly for 5 minutes or so more.
Meanwhile cook some noodles in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain them (reserving a ladleful of the water) and add them to the vegetables.
Add 1-2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 1-2 tbsp of sweet chili sauce and the reserved noodle water.
Toss everything together, bring up to the boil and give a final few stirs then serve.

The radishes give a water-chestnut like crunch to the stir fry and keep their pretty pink colour too.

Summer Stir Fry

To use up your leftover radishes, slice them finely (or use a food processor) and toss them in some mustard mayonnaise along with finely sliced celeriac to make a Radish Remoulade:

Radish Remoulade
You can use shredded white cabbage or carrot if you prefer this to the celeriac.

Salads are needed as an accompaniment to the next dish- a cheat's Pissaladiere (an onion tart/pizza from Nice).
Some say it should have a dough base like a pizza, others insist on a pastry base.(You will never get two Provencal mamies to agree on any recipe!)

So, you can  either make this tart using frozen puff pastry rolled out to a rectangle, or use pizza dough rolled thinly or cheat even further by using a pre- cooked pizza base, as I have done here.

Pissaladiere Pronto

1 pizza base ( or puff pastry or pizza base mix as described above)
2 large onions
1 clove of garlic (crushed)
black olives
1 small tin anchovies (optional)

1. Slice the onions finely and cook them slowly and gently in olive oil and butter in a pan with a lid or in the slow cooker until they are cooked to a golden brown pulp. Season with salt, pepper, crushed garlic and a pinch of sugar.
2. Lay out your base (pizza or pastry) and spread the onion pulp over it.
3. Criss-cross with anchovies (if you are using them) and dot with black olives
4. Bake in a hot oven (200 degrees) until either your pastry is golden ( 20 mins) or your pizza base is crisp ( 10-15 mins).


Pissaladiere Pronto
Sorry! we had eaten half of it before I remembered to take a photo!

Serve with the radish salad and some dressed green leaves. (I am using watercress, spinach and rocket).

Bagged salad can be as much of a scourge as a boon. Yes, it's convenient but you may end up throwing half of it away as it doesn't keep long once opened.

Just as cooking with radishes might have taken you by surprise- cooking with salad leaves is also a good way to use them up. Try this:

Salad Bag Soup


Salad Bag Soup



Ingredients:
1 onion, chopped finely
1 litre of vegetable stock
3-4 fat garlic cloves, peeled
3-4 sage leaves
2 bay leaves
200g watercress, washed and roughly chopped
200g baby spinach leaves or a bag of salad leaves
2 tbsp finely chopped herbs (parsley, chives, dill)
olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
croutons of thinly cut baguette
1. Soften the onion in a little olive oil
2. Tie the sage and bay leaves together with some string and place them in a pan of simmering vegetable stock, in which you also have put the whole garlic cloves
3. Simmer for 10 minutes until the garlic cloves are soft.
4. Remove the herb leaves and discard. Keep the soft garlic cloves to one side.
5. Add the onion, watercress, spinach and chopped herbs and simmer for a further 10 minutes
6. Blitz in a liquidiser until smooth, taste and adjust seasoning
7. Mash the garlic cloves with a little olive oil and spread the paste onto the croutons
8. Serve the soup and croutons together.
This soup keeps its flavour and colour for up to 2 days in the fridge and freezes well.
I often serve it with a dash of milk or cream in it too.
Finally, I'm using up the rest of the onions that I cooked in the slow cooker to top a Flammekueche or Tarte Flambee.
Traditionally, this tart is made with a dough base which is wafer-thin and crispy. I have made the quickest possible version here, using sandwich thins ( those square toasting breads). You could use pitta bread too.
Tartines Flambees
1 sandwich thin or pitta bread per person
1 tub of creme fraiche
2 onions ( cooked slowly with garlic as in the recipe above)
140 g bacon lardons or diced cooked ham
1. Split the breads, spread the creme fraiche and onion paste generously over them
2. Sprinkle on the lardons or ham and bake on a baking tray in a very hot oven until the creme fraiche starts to turn golden brown and the bacon is looking caramelized.
Delicious with a glass of Alsace white wine.

Tartines Flambees
So, there we are: five fast foods to help you out quickly at supper time. 

(Alas, a little too much alliteration though!)


Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Six Simple Strawberry Dishes

Inspired by this gorgeous photo of my daughter's first strawberry crop this year- I thought it was time to think about ways of using up all those luscious red summer fruits that are starting to fill the shops, roadside stalls and PYOs.

After all, it is the Chelsea Flower Show this week, Wimbledon is just around the corner and all those other milestones of an English summer are appearing on the horizon. (Even if the central heating is still on and the rain is lashing down outside!)

So, I've put together 6 recipes to make the most of a punnet of strawberries.






With strawberries, just fresh as they are with some cream is usually the best way- but to pretty them up a bit ( and make them go a bit further ) try making a tartare.

Strawberry and Basil Tartare

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Fresh Ideas


I'd like to say that life is getting back to normal here, after our French adventure, but what with one thing and another, it just hasn't.
However, it's definitely time to restock with some fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and fish. Even reading last month's blog back to myself leaves me with a feeling of Vitamin C deficiency!


So, this time I'm giving you some soup recipes, some starters, vegetable sides and a meat and fish dish with the aim of offering you a more balanced diet than last time.

To start, I've made an Asparagus Charlotte. This is a pretty little starter, featuring a smoked mackerel mousse surrounded by a guard of honour of new season asparagus tips. Very cheffy-looking- but simple to achieve.

Asparagus Charlotte

Slow Braised Fennel
As I mentioned, I intended serving this fennel with fish. I chose firm white fish fillets (cod or hake) and placed them on baking parchment with a splash of white wine and some chopped parsley. I then sealed the parcels up like Cornish pasties, twisting the paper together to form a seal.

Wrapping up the fish parcels

Bake in a hot oven (180 degrees) for 20-25 minutes. Then lift out the fish pieces and spread each one with some olive tapenade. Top that with some breadcrumbs and finely chopped chive or spring onion and flash under a hot grill until crisp.

Serve with the fennel and other veg of your choice. (I usually bake some tomatoes on the vine along with the fish)
Tapenade Crusted Fish
Finally, with the leftover fennel I made another soup: 1 onion and 1 clove of garlic softened, 3 small potatoes (chopped), fennel slices, orange juice, chicken stock and parsley- simmered and then blitzed.
I usually sieve the finished soup to remove any fibrous bits of fennel or potato skin, add a little milk or cream and serve garnished with the fennel fronds which were saved as a garnish.

Cream of Fennel Soup
So, all in all I feel a bit healthier now. Lots of nice spring veg and fresh meat and fish working their magic.

I thought coming back to the UK, I'd find myself fresh out of ideas for the blog- but it seems the opposite is true!

Hope this week's blog has refreshed the parts that other blogs didn't reach..


Wednesday, 22 April 2015

Stale Storecupboard Stuff

Well, I'm back in Blighty, back on home turf with a bump- so it's back to familiar blog territory too ie. using up stuff that you might throw away (if you didn't know better.)

I had a bag of leftover picnic foods from our journey across France, and a storecupboard full of packets and boxes that had sat unused and unloved for the 3 months I was away. Time to use up biscuits, cereal, toasts, cakes and other dry goods before it was too late to do so.




I started with the breakfast cereal- and made a Bettelmann. This is a bread pudding-like cake from Alsace made from cereal and/or toasts, soaked in milk and baked with fruit and a bit of booze.
The name means 'Beggar Man' and is also known as 'Mendiant' in French.
Nothing too poor about it though, as it is spicy and satisfying- especially when served with cream or custard.

It featured in this Saturday's Guardian Cook supplement too.
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/apr/25/cornflake-tart-oat-quiche-ice-cream-sandwich-recipe-swap

Soak some sultanas (or traditionally cherries) in a litle rum (or kirsch for cherries).
Warm but don't quite boil 450ml of milk, 3 tbsp of sugar and add 125g of crushed cereal. Work the mixture with a fork, then a wooden spoon, until you have a homogenous porridge-like consistency. (I know it doesn't sound or look great at this stage- but have faith!) Leave this to stand whilst you butter and line a 20cm cake tin with chapelure (finely blitzed biscotte /toast crumbs).

Into the cake mixture, beat 2 large eggs, a teaspoon of mixed spice and a teaspoon of cinnamon.Peel and thinly slice a dessert apple and add this plus the rum-soaked sultanas to the mix.Pour the mixture into the cake tin, level the surface and sprinkle with a sachet of vanilla sugar.




Bake at 170 degrees for 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean.


Bettelmann with apples and sultanas
I made a very similar pudding-cake using a packet of semolina. I know, I know..semolina! When was the last time you thought of serving that up to your guests? In fact,  I only had a packet in the cupboard as 'emergency camping food'.
However, a gateau de semoule is a very popular French dessert- and I thought I would have a go at making it.

I was pleasantly surprised.

You need 200g of semolina, 150 g sultanas, 140 g caster sugar, 1 litre of milk, 2 eggs, 5 cl of rum and some vanilla essence. For the caramel topping you need 120g of powdered sugar and 4 dessert spoons of water.

1. First soak the sultanas in the rum.
2. Then make up the semolina according to the instructions using the milk, sugar and vanilla essence. Leave it to thicken and cool.
3. Pre heat the oven to 170 degrees and make the caramel by boiling the water and powdered sugar together until it darkens in colour.
4. Pour the caramel into a lined 20 cm cake tin and allow it to spread out.


Caramel topping added
5. Now beat the eggs into the semolina and pour it over the caramel.
6. Bake in the oven until golden and firm.
7. Cool slightly and peel off the lining paper, turn out, slice and serve.


Gateau de semoule
The next two desserts are similar in many ways- they both use an egg custard to set them, rather like a bread-and-butter pudding.

The first I made from a packet of galette biscuits- but any biscuits would do eg. Nice, Malted Milk or Digestives.
Here is the recipe (which appeared in the Guardian earlier in the year.) Their picture (and flattering write-up) is so much better than mine!


A Breton biscuit cake, which won this week's recipe swap competition, sits atop a stripey tablecloth, with a couple of segments missing. The assumption is that someone has eaten a bit of it. To be fair, that's probably what has happened.
"Every dish I cooked was delicious, but the cake from LeftoverLiz quite literally took the biscuit. Who’d have thought that a pint of milk, a couple of eggs, a leftover apple and a few old biscuits could make such a show-off pudding? I’ve since tried it with digestives too, so don’t be afraid to experiment with the broken bits at the bottom of the barrel." (The Editor- Guardian Cook supplement)

The winning recipe: Breton biscuit cake

Although I’ve made this pudding-cake with Breton galette biscuits (because I love their toffee buttery taste), the recipe will work well with any simple biscuits (malted milk, Nice and so on).
LeftoverLiz, via GuardianWitness
Serves 8-10
1 dessert apple or pear, peeled cored and chopped
1 tbsp butter, for greasing the tin
2 eggs
100g caster or vanilla sugar
500ml milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
150g stale biscuits

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1 First make a compote with the apple or pear. Put the fruit in a small saucepan with a little water then stew it down to a pulp for around 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.
2 Generously butter a 15cm cake tin, then beat the eggs and sugar together in a bowl until the mixture goes pale in colour. Mix in the milk and vanilla.
Spread out the biscuits in a layer on the bottom of the tin, add a spreading of the fruit compote and then pour over some of the milk mixture.
4 Repeat with a second and even third layer until you have used up all your ingredients.
5 Leave it to soak while you preheat your oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4 and then bake the cake for around 20-25 minutes until the custard is set. Leave to cool, sprinkle with icing sugar and serve in slices with cream.
My final dessert for today uses up my picnic- to be precise: a box of Madeleines and some jam.
Leftovers from a Proustian picnic
1.Butter a gratin dish, slice the madeleines lengthways and spread them with jam.
2.Preheat your oven to 170 degrees
3. Arrange the madeleines in the dish and pour over an egg custard made from 350 ml of milk mixed with 1 beaten egg, some vanilla essence and 100g of caster sugar.

Soak the cakes in the egg custard
4. Allow the milk to soak in to the cakes and then bake until risen and firm (about 25 minutes).

Madeleine Pudding
And so here ends my story of stale storecupboard stuff.

It is nice to be back- but I think it is high time I went out and bought some fresh ingredients. Don't you?


Wednesday, 1 April 2015

Specialities of Nice

We have had many visitors over the last three months here in Cassis. And last week, a family member flew in to Nice airport for a brief stay. We thought we would combine the airport pick- up with a short city break in Nice, as it is a city I haven't visited before.

Well, reader, we loved it. Think California meets Rome-  all wrapped up in a French package. Nice had it all.




 Joggers and skaters thronged the Promenade des Anglais, whilst the beach bars played 'California Dreaming'  and 'Sitting on the Dock of the Bay' and then, as you reach Vieux Nice, suddenly the street signs are in Italian and French, huge marble piazzas open out and fountains sparkle.
The tiny winding streets of the old quarter host hundreds of restaurants- and we made it our mission to seek out some specialites Nicoise to share with you- pan bagnat, salade nicoise, pissaladiere, socca, petits farcis, and panisse.

I ordered an assiettte du coin which had all or most of these delights on one plate:

Clockwise from the top- socca, pissaladiere, petits farcis, panisse, beignets d'aubergine

Socca was new to me- but, if you like savoury pancakes and especially if you are looking for gluten-free, then this is a good recipe for you as these hearty galettes are made from chickpea flour:

Ingredients:

100g chick pea flour
100g corn flour (maizena)
2 eggs
400 ml milk
generous pinch of salt

Mix all together and beat well with a balloon whisk.
Heat an ovenproof frying pan until smoking with a very small amount of flavourless oil and fry your pancake on one side only.
Drizzle with olive oil.
Finish the second side under a hot grill.

Serve with more olive oil and a good grinding of black pepper.

Salade nicoise and pan bagnat go hand in hand as the latter is pretty much a sandwich made from the former- so a good leftover idea.

For the salad you need: tuna, black olives, hard boiled eggs, anchovies, salad leaves, sweet white onion (or spring onion) and tomatoes plus a dressing made from olive oil, mustard and white wine vinegar.

Salade nicoise

For the pan bagnat, you need individual crusty rolls or a pain de campagne for a large version.

Cut off the lids, and hollow out the bread inside (blitz this for breadcrumbs to keep in the freezer).
Drizzle in olive oil and then pack the cavities with tuna, olives, tomatoes, salad leaves, anchovies, radishes, peppers, eggs etc
Replace the lids and wrap tightly in cling film and then refrigerate (preferably for several hours) so the filling soaks into the bread and compacts down-  becoming easy to slice and serve.

individual Pan bagnat 




Pan Bagnat goes large!

Everybody knows my penchant for stuffing vegetables and I've featured petits farcis before:


Image for Petits Farcis